Wagram wine

The vineyards in this region are separated into two clearly defined zones. The first zone is located north of the Danube, adjacent to the Kamptal region. It is characterized by the expansive “Wagram,” a large terraced land that extends eastward for approximately 30 kilometers.

The second zone, situated south of the Danube, encompasses the charming wine villages of the Tulln Basin and the historic wine-growing town of Klosterneuburg. Remarkably, this second zone is in close to Vienna, making it easily accessible from the city.

Wagram and Klosterneuburg

Wagram derives from “Wogenrain,” meaning “wave bank.” Indeed, as we will see in the next paragraph, the soil is mostly glacial loess, layered over marine sediments and river gravels, hence the name.

The largest private winery in Austria, Stift Klosterneuburg, has made a significant impact on the history of Austrian wine.

A similar example is provided by the Higher Federal Institute for Viticulture and Arboriculture, the world’s first viticultural school founded in 1860, which imparts viticultural expertise to young individuals on an international level.

Furthermore, the range of wineries in the wine-producing commune extends from small family enterprises to large winemaking estates, showcasing the diverse and rich winemaking scene.

Terroir of Wagram: soil and climate

As I was saying, the soils in the region predominantly consist of loess, although they vary in nature and concentration.

North of the Danube, loess dominates, covering almost the entire subsoil composed of crystalline rocks, loamy marine sediments, clay from the molasse zone, and glacial terrace gravels. These are known as the Hollabrunn-Mistelbach formation. These soils mark the ancient bed of the Danube, dating back approximately 10 million years.

South of the Danube, vineyards extend over various rocks from the molasse zone, reaching Großlage Klosterneuburg in the east. The vineyards are situated on flysch rocks with varying limestone content. The term “flysch” refers to characteristic and repetitive sequences of clayey-limy rocks and marl, which originated from underwater mudflows that flowed into the depths of the ancient ocean.

The best vineyards in the area are around the communes of of Feuersbrunn, Fels, Kirchberg (with its regional wine library Weritas), and Großriedenthal.

Grape varieties in Wagram

Grüner Veltliner, in particular, produces flavorful and spicy wines, both in the Klassik version (classic dry version) and the Reserve (more characterful).

The indigenous grape variety Roter Veltliner offers elegant and original white wines that age well when harvests are regulated.

Red wines are also produced in leading estates, especially from Blauer Zweigelt and Pinot Noir.

You will also find sweet wines, or to be more precise, Eiswein, especially near Großriedenthal.

Wagram DAC

The Austrian Wine Marketing Board made an announcement on February 2, 2022, regarding the approval of a newly established wine region called Wagram DAC under the Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) classification.

Wagram has adopted a quality scheme similar to other Austrian wine regions. This scheme consists of three categories: Gebietswein (regional-wide wine), Ortswein (village wine), and Riedenwein (single-vineyard wine).

Gebietswein-level wines can be made from thirteen grape varieties, while Ortswein is limited to seven approved varieties. Riedenweine, the top-tier wines, are produced exclusively from Grüner Veltliner, Roter Veltliner, and Riesling grapes from officially approved vineyards.

According to the DAC regulations, all DAC white wines, regardless of category, must be dry and free from prominent oak flavors.

Wineries in Wagram

Let me share some of my favourite wineries, added by some of Stephen Brook’s from his book.

Anton Bauer, who trained with G. Duboeuf in the Beaujolais, focuses on red wines, which make up half of his production.

Fritsch, who assumed ownership in 1999, converted his property to biodynamic farming in 2006, emphasizing reduced yields and meticulous vineyard work. Josef Fritz is renowned for his Roter Veltliner and Roter Traminer wines.

Franz Leth Jr, who took over the family estate in 2006, prioritizes sustainable farming practices, avoiding the use of herbicides, anti-botrytis treatments, and other chemicals. While Grüner Veltliner remains his main focus, he is also a great admirer of Roter Veltliner. Additionally, he cultivates Pinot Noir on limestone-dominated soils, but it is his Grüner Veltliner that truly shines.

Bernhard Ott, who assumed control of the estate at the age of 21 in 1995, made significant changes by converting to biodynamic practices and enlisting the expertise of Claude Bourguignon to examine his soils. Ott produces numerous Grüner Veltliner wines, all fermented and aged in steel tanks with extended lees aging. Notably, he also creates a unique Grüner Veltliner inspired by Georgian winemaking, fermenting destemmed grapes in amphorae and sealing them for five months.

Conclusion : Wagram wine

Wagram, a natural landscape in Austria, offers ideal conditions for producing flavorful and aromatic wines. The region has a rather homogeneous geological and climatic profile, with glacial loess covering the subsoil of marine sediments and river gravels.

Notable wineries in the region include Anton Bauer,Fritsch, Josef Fritz, Leth, and Bernhard Ott, each with their unique approaches to winemaking.

In 2022, the Austrian Wine Marketing Board approved the establishment of Wagram DAC, which follows a quality scheme comprising Gebietswein, Ortswein, and Riedenwein categories. These categories define the grape varieties and quality standards for wines produced in the region. White wines in the DAC must be dry and free from dominant oak flavors.

Leave a comment if you would like to taste some Wagram wines!