What are the red wines of Burgenland?
In the east of Austria lies Burgenland. The name means “land of castles” in German and it comes from the fact that the region was once home to many castles and fortresses. It was part of the Kingdom of Hungary until the end of WWI, when it became part of Austria following the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
This meant that some winemakers (such as Gamser) had grapes on both sides of the border. The concept of Doppelbesitz was born, meaning the producers were allowed to use the grapes on both sides of the border in 2015. If you want to know more about Austria’s wine history, check out my post on the subject.
Although, Burgenland is the least populated state in Austria, it has a rich history. It used to be inhabited by Celts, Romans and various Germnaic tribes over the centuries. Its strategic location has made it a site of numerous conflicts throughout histroy, including battles between the Ottoman Empire and the Habsburs in the 16th and 17th centuries.
Burgenland is mostly known for its red wines, made from Blaufrankisch and its sweet white wines made from Welschriesling.
It is subdivided into 5 subregions : Leithaberg, Neusiedlersee, Mittelburgenland, Eisenberg, Rosalia
The red wines in Leithaberg
Leithaberg is a wine region located mostly to the west of the Neusiedlersee in Austria. The region covers 3097 hectares of Blaufränkisch, Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling, Weissburgunder, Zweiget, St Laurent, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah.
Leithaberg has a complex geological structure, with fossil limestone, schist, and gneiss found in the higher elevations. The region is known for producing elegant wines with higher acidity due to its cooler climate, unlike the powerful wines from the Neusiedlersee region.
The Leithaberg DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) was launched in 2010, with strict regulations governing the production of BF wines. According to the DAC, at least 85% of the wine must be Blaufränkisch, with no more than 15% of St Laurent, Zweigelt, or Pinot Noir. The wines must be aged in oak barrels, while the white blend or single varietals such as Weissburgunder, Chardonnay, Neuburger, and Grüner Veltliner must be aged in steel tanks or barrels.
Hans Nittnaus, a winemaker in the region, observes that the Blaufränkisch wines from Leithaberg have around half a gram more acidity compared to the wine from Gols, making them stand out. Although the village of Rust is more famous for its Ausbruch, it produces outstanding Blaufränkisch wines, with vines that were first planted 130 years ago.
In conclusion, Leithaberg is a wine region with a unique geological structure and a cooler climate that gives its wines a higher acidity and elegance. The strict regulations of the DAC ensure that the Blaufränkisch wines produced in the region are of high quality and aged in oak barrels.
The red wines in Neusiedlersee
Burgenland is a wine region situated in the eastern part of Austria, just to the south of Vienna. The region is divided into four sub-regions, each with its own unique characteristics. The largest and warmest of the four regions is located on the eastern side of the Neusiedlersee, which is the shallow lake that dominates the area.
This region is home to 6675 hectares of vines, with just over half of the plantings devoted to white grape varieties. The eastern side of the region is where the influence of the lake is at its strongest.
By the way, the shallow waters and numerous lakes and ponds in the area create a humid climate that is perfect for the development of botrytis, the fungus responsible for producing some of the world’s greatest sweet wines. The southern part of the region, known as the Seewinkel, has gravelly soils and is considered to be one of the best areas for producing sweet wines.
The climate is also influenced by the Pannonian climate from the Hungarian plains, which brings warm summer days and limited diurnal range. This results in wines with lower acidity than those found on the other side of the lake.
The soils in the region are varied, with loam, gravel, and sand being the most prominent types.
Zweigelt is the most important grape variety, with 1812 hectares of plantings. It is also the sole grape permitted for the DAC designation.
In 1994, a group of estates joined forces to create a label called Pannobile. Nine wineries currently produce under this label, including Judith Beck, Claus Preisinger, Helmuth Renner, A and H Nittnaus, Andreas and Hans Gsellmann, Gernot Heinrich, Gernot Leitner, Gerhard Pittnauer, and Paul Achs.
The dry, warm summers and lakeside humidity make this an ideal area for growing grapes. However, many vineyards are planted on sandy soils, sometimes on gravel, resulting in wines with low acidity and jammy flavors. It can be challenging to achieve the same finesse as the wines produced in Leithaberg, another sub-region of Burgenland.
In conclusion, the eastern side of the Neusiedlersee in Burgenland is a fascinating wine region with unique characteristics that produce some of the world’s greatest sweet wines but their reds musn’t be overlooked. The climate and soils in the area make it an ideal location for growing grapes, and the region has a number of outstanding wineries that are worth exploring.
The red wines in Mittelburgenland
The Mittelburgenland region in Austria is home to 2104 hectares of vineyards, where Blaufränkisch is the most widely planted grape variety, accounting for 55% of the total plantings.
This sheltered region is exposed to the warm air of the Pannonian plains, making it the ideal growing conditions for this variety. The area receives moderate rainfall and has rich clay and loam soils, some of which contain limestone.
Thus, the Blaufränkisch grape thrives in this region due to its unique terroir and ideal growing conditions. The resulting wines are known for their rich, spicy flavors, and deep colors.
In addition to Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt and Merlot also thrive in this region.
The vineyards are located in the northern part of the region, including Neckenmarkt, Horitschon, and Deutschkreuz, while the southern region around Lutzmannsburg is dominated by sandy loam soils. Two of the best-known vineyards in the region are Hochäcker, which has deep clay and silt over gravel soils, and Dürrau, which has deep loam and clay soils with an iron content.
The Mittelburgenland region established a three-tier DAC system in 2005, which requires that at least 85% of the wines produced in the region must be made from Blaufränkisch grapes.
The red wines in Eisenberg (or Südburgenland)
The Burgenland region of Austria has many top vineyards, particularly on the western side of the Hungarian border. The area stretches from Rechnitz in the north, where a lot of white wine is produced, down to Eberau and Heiligenbrunn in the south, encompassing 487 hectares of vines, with Blaufränkisch being the dominant grape variety.
The wine produced in this region used to be known as Eisenberger, after the most famous site. Therefore, when the DAC was created in 2008 for pure Blaufränkisch wines, it was natural for it to be named Eisenberg.
The old regional name of Südburgendland has now been replaced by that of its DAC. Any wines that are not pure Blaufränkisch must be labeled instead as Burgenland. However, the Eisenberg DAC includes the same vineyards as the former appellation.
The soils in the region consist of slate, quartz, and iron, which add spicy flavors to the wines. Lower on the slopes towards Deutsch Schützen, there is more loam in the soil, resulting in wine with a more robust and earthy flavor. Elsewhere, the soil is sandy.
The climate in Eisenberg is cooler than in other areas, with little moderating influence from Neusiedlersee. Some warming influence comes from Hungary. The area has a moderate rainfall, and Blaufränkisch thrives in the sheltered region, exposed to the warm air of the Pannonian plains.
The vineyards are situated in the northern part, including Neckenmarkt, Horitschon, and Deutschkreuz. The southern part, including Lutzmannsburg, is dominated by sandy loam soils.
Around 40% of the grapes grown in Eisenberg are white varieties, with the remaining being Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, and Merlot, all of which thrive in the area.
There is a unique specialty in the region: the non-vinifera hybrid variety called Uhudler. It is scarce and mostly grown in Heiligenbrunn and Moschendorf.
Conclusion : What are the red wines of Burgenland?
Under the influence of the hot continental Pannonian climate, Austria’s most complex red wines thrive in this eastern region. And each sub region has its own characteristics.
Further south, Mount Eisenberg with its specific substrates and a hint of Styrian freshness offers optimal conditions for Blaufränkisch to produce finely mineral and incomparably elegant red wines.
On the heavy clay soils of the Mittelburgenland area, as well as to the north of the Rosalia mountain range, exceptional fruity Blaufränkisch wines with depth and length on the palate grow.
In the hills to the west of Lake Neusiedl, a pronounced mineral note with a touch of tannin is possible.
To the east, the Blauer Zweigelt dominates with its full-bodied and juicy red wines.
If you want to know more about the wineries and taste of each wine, click on any region and get a glimpse of my favourite wineries.
Another way to go (and the most efficient) is to book a flight and sign up for one of the many wine-tasting tours in Burgenland!