Burgenland wines

Burgenland is one of the four main Austrian wine areas.

The main reputation of Austria lies in the exceptional quality of its dry white wines, made from the indigenous Grüner Veltliner and Riesling grapes. However, Austria also produces a wide array of excellent red wines using local grape varieties like Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch.

Furthermore, Austria is recognized for its botrytized dessert wines made from Welschriesling in the Burgenland region, situated in the eastern part of the country along the Hungarian border.

Burgenland has winemaking roots back to Roman times, keeping the folks in Carnuntum and Vienna happy by supplying wine. Post-World War I, the region adopted its current name after voting to remain in Austria (good call!). Initially known for Hungarian grape varieties, Burgenland gradually shifted to Austrian varieties like Welschriesling and Blauburger. Despite facing a few hiccups like Soviet occupation and a wine scandal in 1985, the region has bounced back like a champ! With diverse terroirs ranging from the hills of Leithaberg to the shores of Lake Neusiedl, Burgenland produces outstanding wines, in the dry red wines and white sweet wines areas.

History of Burgenland

Archaeological evidence shows that the Romans were producing wines in Burgenland to supply their large settlements in Carnuntum and Vienna.

The area around Neusiedlersee became famous for its sweet wines, particularly Rust and its Ausbruch wines.

Until 1921, this region was part of Austria-Hungary. After World War I and the Treaty of Versailles, Hungary became independent. The residents of Burgenland voted to remain in Austria, and the region adopted the name Burgenland.

At that time, the wines from Burgenland had little reputation, and the principal grape varieties were Hungarian. The wines were mostly exported to Slovakia, Hungary, and Poland. The major grape varieties of Burgenland are also found across the border in the Hungarian village of Sopron.

However, over time, these Hungarian varieties declined, and more “Austrian” varieties such as Welschriesling and Blauburger emerged. Burgenland initially stagnated, particularly after 1945 when it was under Russian occupation.

However, when the Russians withdrew in 1956, there was renewed interest in the region, and its reputation grew as a source of inexpensive sweet wines until the scandal of 1985.

In summary, Burgenland witnessed the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, contested borders, and Soviet occupation. These challenges after the war reached a peak during the 1985 wine scandal that had a big impact on the Austrian wine industry.. Despite nationwide restructuring towards quality, Burgenland’s transformation was gradual.

Today, Burgenland stands as a testament to resilience. Thanks to EU investments, its wineries are among the country’s most modern. Embracing natural resources, rediscovering vineyards, and reviving old techniques, Burgenland’s winemakers are crafting world-class wines, a blend of tradition and innovation.

Terroir : soil and climate

Burgenland offers a wide range of wine styles, including outstanding sweet wines produced around the lake, thanks to the shallow water, autumn mists, and the development of noble rot (botrytis).

The primary distinction between the Wachau (the other big region Austria) in the north and its southern counterpart, Burgenland, is in the climate.

The former is defined by its proximity to contrasting cold and hot weather systems whereas the latter lies on the vast expanse of the Pannonian plain, subject to its warm westerly winds. This warmth is the key factor enabling red grapes to ripen in such a northern latitude, transforming the landscape from predominantly white wine territory to red wine haven.

Nonetheless, Burgenland also receives cooling influence in its northern tip, bordering Slovakia from the neighboring Weinviertel. The southern Eisenberg also experiences cooler conditions, influenced by slightly colder air from the eastern Alps.

While the Danube in the Wachau acts as a temperature regulator, the Burgenland has its forests. But not only do they provide shade and cooling effects, they also protect the vines (with the fragile botrytized grapes) from winds and they foster biodiversity (just like the terraces in the Wachau)

Although Burgenland experiences slightly more rainfall than Lower Austria, the higher temperatures and increased evaporation mitigate this difference. Consequently, drought can pose a challenge for winemakers, leading to the adoption of irrigation in vineyards. The finest wines often emerge from water-retaining clay or loam sites, allowing for dry farming, which may reduce yields but enhances overall quality.

The red wines from the slopes of Leithaberg and the hills of Eisenberg and Mittelburgenland benefit from limestone, clay, and schist soils, providing excellent conditions for red wine production, with good water retention and drainage.

Coarse sandy gravels with varying carbonate content from the ancient Danube beds dominate over 60 percent of the region, notably the gravel of Seewinkel, where approximately one-third of the country’s vineyards are located. The Seewinkel gravel is only locally covered by fine sediments. Older terraces have a clay layer, often low in limestone, that extends over large areas.

About one-third of the vineyards are established on the Neogene sediments of the basins. These sediments vary greatly in terms of grain size distribution, carbonate content, and consolidation. They can range from loamy clays, sometimes nearly pure and devoid of limestone in the Mittelburgenland, to hard limestones in Leitha.

The percentage of vineyards on hard rocks is low, but it offers a diverse spectrum including dolomite and limestone, limestone schists, clayey and mica schists, gneiss, amphibolites, and serpentinites.

The famous lake of Burgenland : Neusiedlersee

In Lower Austria, particularly in Wachau, the Danube River took center stage in the landscape, playing a vital role. Large bodies of water played a key role in temperature regulation, ensuring the survival of vines through cold winters and providing cooling relief in scorching summers.

On the flip side, Burgendland, situated south of the river, missed out on these positive effects. The region, historically less prosperous with limited investment, also didn’t benefit from the Danube’s use as a trade route. Its most defining physical feature is the captivating Neusiedlersee, or Lake Neusiedl, visible on the map below. Interestingly, parts of the lake are claimed by three different sub-regions.

Austria’sl largest lake is actually claimed by three different sub-regions. It is very shallow, at most, it is 11-inches deep : you can actually walk through it.

ANECDOTE : Adding to its mystery, Lake Neusiedl is not fed by any rivers or springs and has dried up over 100 times, notably in 1866. The reasons for its periodic drying and sudden refilling, five years later, remain elusive, even after farmers began cultivating crops in its silty bottom.

Its shallow depth allows is actually the key to Burgenland’s sweet wines. It heats up during the growing season, resulting in humid conditions with morning fog—an ideal environment for mildew spores. However, the region benefits from 2,000 hours of annual sunshine and constant afternoon breezes, ensuring that the fog dissipates by mid-morning, effectively drying out the grapes.

This unique climate sets the stage for the development of botrytis, or noble rot. (In a nutshell, botrytis is a fungus that desiccates grapes, concentrating their sugars. Fermented, these grapes impart a spicy, saffron, orange note, resulting in intensely sweet wines).

ANECDOTE : Unlike other renowned wine-growing regions like Sauternes, Tokaj, and the Mosel, the Neusiedlersee consistently experiences prevalent noble rot year after year. Although historically significant wines from these grapes have fallen out of fashion, they remain treasures sought after by wine aficionados.

Grape varieties in Burgenland

In terms of red wine production, there is still no single strategy in Burgenland. Some producers prefer international grape varieties, while others focus on Austrian varieties.

ANECDOTE : Alois Kracher in 2003 : “There are no Austrians reds that can compete with the best of Bordeaux or Napa at ten years old. Austria has its own grapes but not its own style, so there is a conflict between regionality and international acceptance. It will take us a while to be recognised internationally, as there is so much competition from other countries, which are also improving quality fast. We can also lack focus. Austrians are trying to make good Pinot Noir and good Cabernet Sauvignon, but it’s impossible to do both – it’s basically too warm for Pinot Noir and too cold for Cabernet.”

The most planted grape varieties are Blaufränkisch (22%), Zweigelt (19%), Grüner Veltliner (10%), Welschriesling (10%), and Chardonnay and Weissburgunder (roughly 5% each).

Schilfwein, made from healthy grapes dried on reeds (rather than straw), is another style found in Burgenland. These wines, along with Strohwein, are very sweet but tend to lack structure and acidity, and are usually intended to be consumed when young.

Eiswein is also produced near the lake, although the best examples are found in the Weinviertel region, as well as in Germany and Canada.

The DAC in Burgenland

The introduction of the DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) system has led to regional changes within Burgenland, which is now divided into five separate regions: Leithaberg (formerly Neusiedler-Hügelland) on the western side of the lake, Neusiedlersee on the eastern side, Mittelburgenland and Eisenberg (formerly Südburgenland), and Rosalia (created in 2018, essentially the southwest extension of Leithaberg).

Since the first typical wine of Burgenland, the Mittelburgenland DAC (since the 2005 vintage), the Leithaberg DAC, and the Eisenberg DAC have also succeeded in establishing themselves. The illustrious circle of the Burgenland DAC range was complemented in March 2012 with the introduction of the Neusiedlersee DAC and the creation of an independent DAC area in 2018, derived from the former grand climate of Rosalia.

The different parts and kind of wines in Burgenland

Under the influence of the continental and warm Pannonian climate, Austria’s most complex red wines thrive in this eastern region. However, it is important not to underestimate the natural differences in characteristics.

Further south, Mount Eisenberg with its specific substrates and a hint of Styrian freshness offers optimal conditions for Blaufränkisch to produce exquisitely elegant red wines with a finely mineral character. The Ruster Ausbruch is one of the world’s most renowned sweet wines and a famous landmark of the regional wine identity.

In the heavy clay soils of the Mittelburgenland area, as well as in the north of the Rosalia range, exceptional Blaufränkisch wines with exceptional fruit depth and length on the palate flourish.

In the hills west of Lake Neusiedl, a pronounced mineral note with a touch of tannin is possible.

The eastern slopes of the Leitha mountain, composed of limestone and schist subsoils, also offer a unique terroir for Blaufränkisch, as well as for complex white wines such as Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, or Grüner Veltliner. Fine quality wines with designations such as the legendary Ruster Ausbruch complement the three facets of the Burgenland hills.

To the east of Lake Neusiedl, Blauer Zweigelt dominates with its full-bodied and juicy red wines, although Blaufränkisch and Sankt Laurent also produce exceptional results.

The Seewinkel area in the southern part of the east benefits from a special microclimate and is among the few great strongholds of sweet wines in the world. Due to the presence of numerous temporary saline water bodies called “Zicklacke,” the high ambient humidity promotes the development of noble rot (botrytis cinerea) in the autumn.

This region regularly produces excellent wines of the Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese types. In addition to a few other varieties such as Chardonnay, Scheurebe, or Traminer, Welschriesling, in particular, achieves its highest level of quality in this form.

Conclusion : Burgenland wines

The terroir of Burgenland offers diverse wine styles, including exceptional sweet wines produced around the lake due to shallow water, autumn mists, and noble rot. The slopes of Leithaberg, Eisenberg, and Mittelburgenland, with their limestone, clay, and schist soils, provide excellent conditions for red wine production, offering good water retention and drainage.

There is no unified strategy for red wine production in Burgenland, with some producers favoring international grape varieties and others focusing on Austrian varieties. The most widely planted grape varieties include Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling, Chardonnay, and Weissburgunder.

The introduction of the DAC system in Burgenland resulted in regional changes, dividing the region into Leithaberg, Neusiedlersee, Mittelburgenland, Eisenberg, and Rosalia. Eiswein is produced near the lake, but the finest examples come from the Weinviertel region, as well as Germany and Canada.

The unique characteristics of each region in Burgenland contribute to the production of diverse wines. Notably, Mount Eisenberg offers optimal conditions for elegant Blaufränkisch wines, while the Mittelburgenland area and north of Rosalia yield exceptional Blaufränkisch wines with depth and length. The Leitha mountain’s eastern slopes provide a terroir for complex white wines and Blaufränkisch. The Seewinkel area benefits from a special microclimate and is renowned for its sweet wines, particularly Welschriesling.