Blaufränkisch, Two Soils: Tasting Terroir with Heinrich
6 minutes read
What happens when you taste the same grape, from the same winemaker, grown on different soils?
That’s exactly what I wanted to explore with two wines from Heinrich, one of Austria’s leading voices in natural and biodynamic winemaking. Both are Blaufränkisch, both fermented spontaneously, both made without fining or filtration. The only real difference? The soil.
If you’ve ever wondered what terroir really means in a glass, this is a great place to start.
Let’s explore two of their wines made from Blaufränkisch. One comes from the cool, stony slopes of Leithaberg, the other from the warmer plains around Gols. And the contrast is delicious.
The Setup: Same Grape, Same Winemaker, Two Terroirs
Blaufränkisch is known for its bright acidity, elegant tannins, and subtle spice. But it’s also a brilliant translator of place — especially when nothing gets in the way. That’s why Heinrich is such a good case study: the wines are made with the same gentle hand, letting the vineyard do the talking.
Here’s what I tasted:
Heinrich Blaufränkisch Leithaberg DAC
- Soils: limestone, schist, and calcareous sandstone
- Site: Jois, Winden, Breitenbrunn (Leitha Hills)
- Style: structured, mineral, cool
Heinrich Blaufränkisch (non-DAC)
- Soils: sandy-loam and mixed sites, including the Parndorfer Platte
- Style: rounder, juicier, more fruit-forward
Same grape, same vintage, same winemaking. Only the ground beneath the vines changes.
Tasting Notes: Feeling the Soil
From the first sip, the Leithaberg DAC felt more upright — almost tense. There’s dark fruit, but also something chalky and linear underneath. It finishes dry, mineral, and grippy, like it’s been shaped by stone.
The non-DAC bottling is more relaxed. The fruit is redder — think cherry, raspberry — and the tannins are smoother. It doesn’t have the same cut, but it feels generous and open, like a different side of the same personality.
Both are unmistakably Blaufränkisch. But their textures, energy, and precision are shaped by soil.
The Soil Behind the Glass
So what makes these two wines feel so different?
In Leithaberg, it’s all about the limestone and schist. These are cool, hard soils — and you can feel it in the wine. The limestone brings tension and clarity, almost like a squeeze of citrus in a sauce. The schist adds structure and spice, grounding the wine with a firm backbone. There’s even a bit of sandstone, which adds a delicate aromatic lift. Altogether, it’s precise, mineral, and almost austere — in a really good way.
The non-DAC bottling, on the other hand, comes from sandy-loam soils and a mix of other parcels around Gols and Winden. These are warmer, softer soils, and you feel that too. The wine is more generous, with redder fruit, smoother tannins, and this lovely sense of openness. It’s not trying to impress you — it just wants to be shared.
Same grape, same winemaker. But where the vines grow changes everything.
Want to try by yourself?
If the bottles are out of stock, just try another vintage…or let me know in the comments and I’ll come up with another suggestion!
Heinrich Blaufränkisch Leithaberg DAC
Who are the Heinrichs?
If you’re not yet familiar with Gernot and Heike Heinrich, now’s the time. Based in Gols, in Austria’s Burgenland region (not far from Hungary), they’ve been making wine since the 1990s — and they’ve always done things a little differently.
In 2006, they converted everything to biodynamic farming. No pesticides. No irrigation. No tricks. Just healthy soil, hand-harvested grapes, native yeasts, and as little interference as possible in the cellar.
Their goal? To let the place speak.
And Blaufränkisch, their signature grape, is a great listener.
What’s in the bottle?
Grown on limestone and mica-schist soils in the Leitha Mountains. These are higher, cooler vineyards facing west, with a breeze from the lake and a slower ripening cycle.
Aged 21 months in large old barrels, bottled unfiltered.
What to expect in the glass?
Structured, salty, precise.
Think blackberries, dried herbs, a hint of graphite, and this beautiful mineral tension that holds everything in place.
🎯 If you like reds with energy, elegance, and grip — this one’s for you.
If you want out of all the jargon and compare it with something you know, let’s put it like this, if you like: Côte de Nuits Pinot Noir, Nerello Mascalese from Etna, or elegant Syrah — this will feel right at home.
What to pair them with?
🥩 Grilled lamb chops with rosemary
🍄 Wild mushroom and lentil stew
🧀 Aged Comté or Gruyère
🥟 Black garlic and mushroom dumplings
A wine for earthy dishes with depth and umami. Think structure, salt, and savoriness.
Heinrich Blaufränkisch 2019
What’s in the bottle?
This one comes from the lowland vineyards around Gols and Winden, on a mix of chalk, clay, and gravel. These are warmer, more fertile soils — and the wine reflects that.
Aged 8 months in large barrels, also bottled unfiltered.
What to expect in the glass?
Juicy, peppery, friendly.
Cherry, plum, violet, black pepper. The tannins are silky, the acidity is fresh, and it’s super drinkable.
💡 Think of it as the laid-back cousin of the Leithaberg — same roots, less formal outfit.
If you’re more familiar with French wines, you can think of this bottle as sitting somewhere between a Cabernet Franc from Saumur and a Cru Beaujolais like Morgon or Fleurie — but with an Austrian twist.
What to pair them with?
🍕 Tomato and mozzarella pizza
🍗 Roasted chicken with paprika
🥕 Charred carrots with cumin and tahini
🧀 Tomme de brebis or fresh Saint-Marcellin
A wine for casual meals, Mediterranean herbs, and grilled vegetables. Bright, flexible, and fun.
Which One Should You Try?
Honestly, both.
If you love minerality and structure, go for the Leithaberg DAC.
If you want something softer and more fruit-driven, the non-DAC bottle is a great way in.
Tasting them together is the best way to get a feel for how Blaufränkisch and terroir interact — especially when nothing else is in the way.
Before we leave off, here’s a little summary of what you’ve just tasted (or you will very soon!)
| Soil Type | Found in | What it brings to the wine |
|---|---|---|
| Limestone | Leithaberg | Verticality, salinity, freshness |
| Mica-schist | Leithaberg | Spice, mineral grip, tension |
| Clay | Gols/Winden | Body, softness, mid-palate roundness |
| Gravel & chalk | Gols/Winden | Lift, bright fruit, vibrant acidity |
You can actually feel it in the glass.
- Leithaberg: more angular, savory, serious
- Gols: more fruity, open, joyful
Where to next?
Exploring the Terroir of Burgenland for Blaufränkisch
In Burgenland, no two vineyards are alike — and that’s exactly what makes Blaufränkisch so exciting. Limestone brings tension, clay adds depth, and exposure changes everything. One grape, endless expressions. Let’s explore how soil and site shape what you taste.
Best Austrian Wine Regions
From crisp Grüner Veltliner in Niederösterreich to bold Blaufränkisch in Burgenland, Austria’s vineyards are full of surprises. Add in aromatic whites from Steiermark, field blends from Vienna, and mountain wines from Bergland — and you’ve got way more than just a “hidden gem” story. Let’s explore.
What to Pair with Blaufränkisch
Austria’s cuisine is way more diverse than people think — and so is Blaufränkisch. In this guide, I explore how this bold, juicy red works with everything from schnitzel to seafood pasta, and why terroir (and your own taste) makes all the difference. Simple, practical tips — no jargon.
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