
Kremstal wine
In Niederösterreich, Wachau has two neighbors : Kremstal and Kamptal. However, both live in its shadow.
This is sad because thee two regions are magnificent example of what Austria has to offer. But the good news is, these two regions offer great quality and attractive value for money!
The two sisters, have shared a similar history.
From vineyards replanted after World War II to the national scandal of 1985 (when a handful of winemakers, overwhelmed by high demand, adulterated their wines with antifreeze), and with the impetus of the Wine Marketing Board created immediately after the crisis, stringent quality standards were implemented, leading to the establishment of the DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) appellations.
Kremstal became a DAC in 2007, followed by Kamptal in 2008.
So let’s get to know sister n°1 : Kremstal!
Kremstal is a wine region along the Danube River, near Krems. It has a rich wine tradition with historic farms, active winemakers, a cooperative, and a wine fair. The climate is influenced by the Danube and nearby forests, and the soil varies from rocky to loess. Riesling grows well on rocky soil, while Grüner Veltliner prefers loess. Kremstal is famous for its juicy and refined white wines, especially Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, as well as some Pinot Blancs and elegant reds. Since 2007, Kremstal wines must be made from either Riesling or Grüner Veltliner. Klassik wines have a minimum alcohol content and no oak flavor, while Reserve wines have higher alcohol content and may have subtle oak or botrytis flavors.
Kremstal overall presentation
Kremstal stretches across the Danube, although to a lesser extent than Wachau. It mainly revolves around the historic riverside town of Krems.
To the south of the Danube lie the communities of Furth, Palt, Krustetten, Hollenburg, Oberfucha, and Tiefenfucha, with the prominent presence of the Stift Göttweig collegiate church, established in 1072.
While wandering through Krems, you’ll find constant reminders about wine. Historical harvest farms stand as a testament to the significance of viticulture traditions.
Today, you’ll find a thriving community of young winemakers, an innovative wine cooperative, a modern viticulture school, and the organization of the renowned national wine fair of Lower Austria.
Terroir of Kremstal : Climate and Soil
Just like the Wachau, Kremstal benefits from the moderating influence of the Danube on its 2,368 hectares of vineyards. The vineyards are also influenced by nearby forests : Waldviertel ans Dunkelsteinerwald
Just like the Wachau, there are two climatic influences : cool and humid influences from the nearby Waldviertel encounter dry and hot flows from the eastern Pannonian plains.
Geologically, Kremstal is diverse. The area near Krems and its extension to the west, including Stein, has soils similar to those found in Wachau, with heavily weathered primary rock.
Behind Krems, passing through Rohrendorf to Gedersdorf, the vineyards predominantly have loess soils, similar to those in Kamptal and Wagram. They generate a slightly rounder and denser type of Veltliner.
In the northwest of Krems, around Seftenberg, the soils are mostly composed of primary rock. Gföhl gneiss predominates.
South of the Danube, the soils vary and include sand, gravel, loess and granulite mostly. Granulite is a light-colored and very hard rock, belonging to the same family as Gföhl gneiss but occurring in tightly packed layers and plates.
Among the loose rocks, carbonate loess dominates and forms multiple layers in some areas. It can cover both crystalline rocks and older gravel, sand, and clay sediments from molasses deposits and Danube terraces, which were deposited by either the sea or rivers.
Only the lowest and flattest areas near the gravelly bed of the Danube valley do not have a layer of loess but rather a thin skin of flood sediments.
The grape varieties in Kremstal
About a quarter of the vineyards in Kremstal are planted with red varieties, with Grüner Veltliner being the most dominant white grape variety. Riesling covers 260 hectares, while Zweigelt covers 307 hectares.
The white wines are mostly juicy and refined white wines, especially Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, but also some Pinot Blancs. There are also elegant and expressive red wines.
Riesling thrives on rocky gneiss soils near Krems, specifically in vineyards such as Pfaffenberg, Grillenparz, Kremsleiten, and Kögl.
On the other hand, Grüner Veltliner is more at home on the loess soils of Sandgrube, Weinzielberg, and Gebling.
Kremstal DAC
Kremstal entered the DAC system a year earlier than Kamptal, in 2007. The regulations are identical, requiring wines to be produced from either Riesling or Grüner Veltliner grapes.
The Klassik category must have a minimum alcohol content of 12% and show no oak influence.
The Reserve category must have at least 13% alcohol and may exhibit discreet oak and/or botrytis aromas and flavors. The maximum permitted residual sugar in Reserve wines is 9 grams per liter.
Wineries in Kremstal
Let me give you some recommendations on wineries you should visit I took from Stephen Brook’s book :
- Joseph & Philipp Bründlmayer: Known for impeccable quality, aided by their possession of outstanding vineyards. They’re one of my favourites!
- Buchegger: Considered one of the finest estates, Walter Buchegger took over the family estate near Gedersdorf and Rohrendorf in 1994. He supplemented his own vineyard’s produce with purchased grapes for his basic wines.
- Geyerhof: Located on the south side of the Danube with varied soils. Known for keeping some wines in barrels for many years, such as the Grüner Veltliner Gutsreserve which spends six years on fine lees. Rieslings grown on primary rock soils deliver spice, minerality, and persistence.
- Malat: Most vineyards are located around the winery, ensuring a short time from vine to tanks. Farming practices are scrupulous, with short pruning, green harvesting, and selective picking aimed at reducing yields and increasing quality. White grapes are whole cluster pressed and fermented in steel tanks. They specialize in white wines made from late-picked grapes with up to 15g of residual sugar and high alcohol.
- Sepp Moser: Established in 1987 and converted to biodynamic farming since 2000. Fermentation is done with indigenous yeasts or the winery’s own selection, without added enzymes or must concentration. White wines are aged mostly in tanks and casks from Austrian oak, while red wines are mostly aged in older barriques.
- Nigl: Martin Nigl took over the estate in 1990 and oversaw its expansion. Vineyards are scattered, with the most well-known being the 10ha Piri in Senftenberg. Nigl focuses on balance and fruit quality, avoiding botrytis influence. Their stylistic goal is to make wines of clarity and purity.
- Proidl: Similar to Nigl, Proidl chose the first-rate vineyard of Seftenberg. Wines are fermented with natural yeasts and require bottle age to reveal their quality.
- Salomon Undhof: The Salomon family managed to buy a monastic estate in 1792, which they still farm today. The winery is known for destemming all grapes, giving skin contact to Riesling, fermenting with selected yeasts, and aging wines on fine lees in casks.
- Stadt Krems: The vineyards have belonged to the city since 1452. Previously run by Miesbauer, the winery has a history of quality winemaking. Fritz Miesbauer, who used to work at Domäne Wachau, ended up here after a falling-out with his previous boss.
Conclusion : Kremstal wine
Kremstal is a unique wine region located along the Danube, with a particular focus on the historic riverside of Krems. The area has a strong wine culture, evidenced by its historical farms, thriving winemakers, innovative cooperative, and wine fair.
The climate in Kremstal is moderated by its proximity to the Danube and influenced by the nearby forests. The region’s geology is diverse, with soils ranging from heavily weathered primary rock to loess and granulite. Riesling thrives on rocky gneiss soils, while Grüner Veltliner prefers loess soils.
Kremstal produces juicy and refined white wines, particularly Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, along with some Pinot Blancs and elegant red wines.
Kremstal entered the DAC system in 2007, with regulations similar to Kamptal, requiring wines to be produced from Riesling or Grüner Veltliner grapes. The Klassik wines have minimum alcohol content and no oak influence, while the Reserve wines have higher alcohol content and can exhibit discreet oak and/or botrytis characteristics.
If you want to know all about its sister, go read my post on Kamptal!
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One Comment
Franck
Very interesting!